London's V&A tells Supremes story through clothes

By Harriet Walker

LONDON (Reuters Life!) - We've all got an old ra-ra skirt or Hawaiian shirt that we just can't bring ourselves to throw out. But they probably haven't seen us through TV shows and tours, or rode with us to the top of the music charts.

"The Story of the Supremes from the Mary Wilson Collection" opens at London's Victoria and Albert Museum on May 13 and tells the tale of the girl group's musical and cultural journey through their sparkling performance costumes.

"They're just like old friends," Wilson told Reuters, of the 50-plus items of clothing she has had in storage for over 30 years.

The collection ranges from the shop-bought dresses purchased in the group's original incarnation as The Primettes, to one-off pieces designed by Hollywood costumier, Bob Mackie - dubbed the 'Sultan of Sequins' for his extravagantly embellished gowns.

"When we started, black people didn't even have citizenship; they didn't have ideals or goals in the same way they do today," Wilson said.

How then, do you dress a trio of young and independent black women struggling against the notions of how to look, perform and behave prescribed by the very culture that refuses to recognize them as equals?

The rise of The Supremes and the development of their personal and musical style is set against the backdrop of the American civil rights movement and a changing world.

With video testimonials and archive footage alongside the stage outfits, the exhibition looks at how the Supremes broke down those barriers to become a worldwide phenomenon.