Sumptuous Scottish fabrics wow at London show

By Sarah Marsh

LONDON (Reuters) - Scottish designer Graeme Black sent models sashaying down the catwalk in tartan pencil skirts, elbow-length leather gloves and slinky tops for his first show at London Fashion Week.

The silhouette was slim, with skirt and frocks cut below the knee, but seductive.

"I was inspired by Miss Jean Brodie, and being prim and beautiful and sensual and proper," said Black, who launched his eponymous label two years ago.

The designer spent the last 15 years in Italy, heading design for Armani Black Label and Ferragamo womenswear, but returned to his Scottish roots for his own autumn-winter collection.

The kilt was reinterpreted in embroidered suede and tweed, while organza and jersey fabrics were beaded with Celtic motifs.

If the Graeme Black label was previously entirely manufactured in Italy, this show introduced a part of the collection "made in Scotland", focusing on cashmeres, fine woven textiles, hand knits.

This was "something to be justly proud of against the backdrop of the fashion industry's relentless move of manufacturing away from its traditional, historical roots," read the notes accompanying the show.

Another British designer to return to her roots this season was Vivienne Westwood, who staged her first London show in nine years on Thursday.